Evgenia at Macy's Glamorama

On September 12th, the Fashion Incubator designers in residence past and present were lucky to walk to the red carpet at Macy's Glamorama. Glamorama Fashion Rocks is a wonderful event which has raised over $44 million for charities that fight childhood illnesses, cancer and HIV/AIDS.

This year's event was quite special for a number of reasons - not only did it boast a red hot headliner (Jason Derulo), but it also featured a pretty amazing fashion show showing upcoming fall styles set to arrive at Macy's this season.

I was so delighted that the gorgeous Frances Tomei agreed to fly up from LA and model for me for the night. We didn't have time for a fitting beforehand, but luckily she fit my samples perfectly and was a complete rockstar the whole evening, turning heads everywhere she went. My pal John James of John James Designs crafted a beautiful-as-always floral headpiece for Frances' Glamorama outfit. Frances also donned a Moiré Moto Jacket from local designer and pal J'Amy Tarr, making for a sexy, yet beautiful completed outfit.

Image by Beppe Sabatini

As for me, amazingly, I had a bit of extra time to sew up a dress for myself, so I took my Skull Deco Cami and turned it into a 1920's inspired frock. Check it out from sketch to conception here.

A Studio Visit with Photographer Sarah Deragon

A few years back I was privileged to be included in an awesome women's indie business group called The Success Squad. Sarah Deragon and Lisa Anderson Shaffer (Zelma Rose) invited me to join at a time where we were all making pretty big work transitions. Honey Cooler Handmade had just started and I found myself struggling to coax a fully-formed business from a mere concept. One of my biggest challenges was staying on task when working from home, and our monthly Success Squad meetings lit the fire that got me to push through my hangups. And here I am at the Fashion Incubator - certainly a large step! Sarah now runs the immensely successful Portraits to the People - she's so in demand these days that I was beyond flattered when she asked to come by to take some shots of my new space.

Check out her beautiful work below. And be sure to check out Sarah's amazing work on her website - she's the one responsible for my kickass headshot below. Sarah's also working on an incredible passion project, The Identity Project, for which she's gained international recognition.

One-of-a-Kind Knickers Restocked

Adapting HCH into a fully reproducible line has been a really amazing experience thus far, but as many of you have probably noticed, my one-of-a-kind pieces have taken a bit of a backseat lately.

Juno Papillon Knickers (medium)

I had a little extra time this week, so I stitched up seven new pairs for the shop, each totally unique and using vintage insertion lace. Each is a different size and color, and all are available on Etsy now. Snap up your favorites soon - these always sell quickly.

Emmaline Papillon Knickers (small)

Christiane Papillon Knickers (large)

Find the full range of one-of-a-kind bottoms here - which is your favorite pair of Papillon Knickers?

Three 'Grams: Pink & Green

My favorite color combination is pastel pink and light green, and this week's Instagram photos boasted quite a bit of both colors. Tomorrow I head to Las Vegas to check out Curve, so it's possible I'll have some glitzy pics to share next week! Happy Sunday evening, everyone!

The newest addition to my vintage collection, worn at a birthday party last weekend

Private Eye Sleep Mask detail

In-progress Deja Vu Dessous for Dollhouse Bettie

HCH Private Eye Sleep Masks Get a Facelift

One of the great things about running Honey Cooler Handmade as a tiny enterprise making one-of-a-kind lingerie is that when my customers make requests, I can often address them without hesitation. There are currently no patternmakers to consult (other than yours truly) and no size runs to adjust, so changes are easy to make.

While my Private Eye Sleep Masks have been a best selling style since their inception, I've also had more than a few requests as of late to make the band bigger. I'm happy to announce that every new Private Eye Sleep Mask is 2" bigger, with average full resting circumference of 17", stretching all the way to a roomy 26" or 27". Even bigger brained? Not to worry - custom work is a snap. Just email me with your stats and we'll take it from there.

(via)

I just finished up a sexy new stash of Private Eye Sleep Masks which are in the official HCH boutique and on Etsy right now. My personal favorite is the red Scarlet Private Eye Sleep Mask, which features a gorgeous dragon lace chevron. Also making a reprise is the Leona Mask, which boasts a sphinx and pyramid motif lace chevron. Each Mask is beautiful, versatile and spacious: the perfect gift for your favorite Sleeping Beauty.

Still Kicking

I'm not dead.

I may seem like I've been off the radar lately, which is kind of the case and kind of not. My poor beloved blog has been neglected of late, a tragic casualty of an impossibly long sickness and far too much stress. I've been very busy putting together my shoot, shows, and sewing my heart out since my return from Pennsylvania. There are some lovely new pieces coming your way, and I figured it was time for a little peek at what's been on my machine lately.

Hardcore HCH fans will recognize the left piece (the Lucky Star Deco Camisole) from my last photo shoot - I created this custom version for a special customer last week. The piece on the right will be starring in next month's shoot. Diana features a skull crowned in stars, set upon the most intoxicating lavender silk jacquard. A gorgeous piece to shoot, and she's only the beginning.

Want to see what I've been working on in person, and scope out never-before-seen lingerie on a trio of lovely models, live? Then please come to the RAWards show in San Francisco on November 14th. Your generous online votes placed me among the top five fashion designers in SF, and now it's time to take the title of Fashion Designer of the Year. Once again, your votes count more than anything, and you need to cast them in person that night. Hope to see you there!

Robe de Style Recap

If you've been following my exploits on Twitter, you know that I created a robe de style dress for a party my husband and I threw to celebrate our anniversary. We rented The Russell Room, a small cigar lounge inside Bourbon & Branch (a fantastic cocktail bar in San Francisco that was once a speakeasy). We asked our guests to dress in the style of the 1920's to keep with the overall feeling of the location - and that meant I had to find the perfect outfit.

The Russell Room inside Bourbon & Branch

Though I love the fashion of the 1920's, most of the dresses were not flattering on women with busts and hips. The trend back then was to bind an ample bosom down to boyish proportions while wearing a girdle-like corset contraption to tame wide hips. Lucky for me, the robe de style dress was a perfect choice given my shape. It was first created by Jeanne Lanvin, and coveted by women who didn't want to wear the uber-short dresses that were then fashionable. Whether or not it's truly the case, I like to think of the robe de style as evidence of a prolonged affection for all things Edwardian. It's a more streamlined and comfortable version of the frou frou gown of the teens, yet retains all the trappings of the prior decade's girliness: ruffles, faux flowers, bows.

I just had to find a pattern that would work... and sadly, there were not many options online. Then I found this lovely creature on eBay. Not quite the right size, damaged and too pricey, but luckily the seller took a million pictures and the body looked easy to mimic.

The finished product

I had a wonderful time working on this project. I got to play around with from-scratch pattern drafting, an unholy amount of gathering, and a rustling Thai silk that smelled like heaven and still makes me swoon when I see it.

Faux flowers, pleats galore and a silk organza hem

For the flower flourish up front, I visited The Ribbonerie. The owner, Pauline, helped me find the perfect spray of vintage German blossoms. I was hoping to get something similar to the original, but had to keep reminding myself that the color and limpness of the 1920's version was due to patina and was unlikely to be replicated. The flowers I picked were as close to perfect as I was going to come with only a week to go.

Dress back and pleating close-up

Even though the misplaced darts on the original dress suggest it was photographed backwards, I couldn't resist keeping the flowers up front, and I loved the idea of the back pleating mimicking the shape of a derrière.

The bodice was a cinch to make - two pieces with four long sashes that tie at the natural waist and cinch above each hip. The skirt was cut double wide, copiously pleated, then sewn into the front and back torso panels before stitching them together. I also finished the hem in a papery silk organza, just like the original. Unlike the original, though, I bias bound the neckline and created wider straps so I'd be able to wear a regular bra underneath.

Jewelry from Etsy, Haute Bride and vintage stores around San Francisco,

1930's evening shoes from Torso Vintages

And if I was going to pull this whole thing off, I had to accessorize like a flapper too: with a bucket of bling. I pulled every sparkly thing I had in my possession, including the necklace I wore for my wedding. What I didn't already have, I snagged off Etsy. Shoes proved to be more difficult to find, but I lucked out and found a pair in need of repainting. They turned out to be wickedly uncomfortable and I kicked them off an hour into the party (see below). I faux-bobbed my hair and gave myself a half-moon manicure. All set!

In action

I love this entry on the flapper from Wikipedia:

Flappers were a "new breed" of young Western women in the 1920s who wore short skirts, bobbed their hair, listened to jazz, and flaunted their disdain for what was then considered acceptable behavior. Flappers were seen as brash for wearing excessive makeup, drinking, treating sex in a casual manner, smoking, driving automobiles and otherwise flouting social and sexual norms.

True to Flapper style, I was so preoccupied with doing my own version of the Charleston and drinking Revolvers that I never settled down for some refined photographs, but so be it. There's always Halloween!

Preview: Susie and Velma Ribbon Corsets

I've been hard at work putting together some last-minute ribbon corsets for Firehouse 8's Holiday Fundraising Bazaar. Check out Susie and Velma! Both are made from velvet: Susie from a classic black and pink stripe, and Velma boasts a trendy rainbow embroidered tribal motif.

Susie Ribbon Corset

Velma Ribbon Corset

Both beauties will be up in the Honey Cooler Handmade shop tomorrow.

A Pretty Personal Project

I'm really lucky to live right near the Concourse Exhibition Center in San Francisco because when the Art Deco shows come around, it's a nice, short, 20-minute walk to my idea of heaven.

Deco The Halls was this weekend and I took an hour or so on my sunny Sunday to peruse the amazing selection of vintage clothing and furniture. It shouldn't come as a surprise that I latched mostly onto the clothing, and came out with this lovely (and shockingly inexpensive) Edwardian petticoat remnant.

I'd originally thought to make this into one of my Souvenir Tops, but then I realized it's been awhile since I sewed something up for yours truly. So this one's mine!

This piece is in superb condition (including the meticulous ribbonwork flowers), but the whole shebang is missing a waistband. It would make a gorgeous skirt, but even better? A dress! It's certainly long enough and with a simple lace yoke, it could make for one uber-feminine layering piece. I'm really excited to get started on this one, and even more excited to wear the finished product.

Preview: Billie Garconne Tap Shorts

It's hard to explain insertion lace to people who have never really examined it before. Typically, the lace is sewn down on a garment, and then the fabric behind the lace is carefully snipped away to reveal a totally sheer motif. Showing sheerness in photos can be difficult... that is, unless you have the right light!

So, here's a sneak peek at Billie's triple-bow-on-the-butt action against my chandelier. I'm about to sew her into a pair of uber-sweet shorts. She'll be in the shop tomorrow, so get your trigger finger ready!

My Newest Lace Haul

New lace in the HCH stash... stay tuned for new pieces next week! In the meantime (since the suspense is undoubtedly killing you), check out what's fresh at the Honey Cooler Handmade Etsy shop.

In Progress: Farida Deco Camisole

From the very moment I spotted this pristine vintage pink elephant tape lace, I had grand ideas of what I'd do with it. I imagined something Indian-inspired, boasting bright glimmering colors to best display what I think has to be the most fun lace I've come across... ever!

Enter Farida, a lovely Deco Cami fashioned out of a papery fine pale aqua silk jacquard which is striped with rivers of colorful tinsel.

I'm so excited to get it into the Honey Cooler Handmade shop tomorrow!

Preview: Julia Deco Camisole

When I visited Hearst Castle last month, I was inspired by architect Julia Morgan's awesome design sensibility, so I named my latest Deco Camisole after her! I love this cami because it's hard-edged Deco motif is etched in the softest lace on the sweetest floral jacquard ground, and I'm all about dichotomy!

The light in my apartment isn't suitable for official product shots yet, so Julia will be up in the Etsy shop tomorrow. For now, sneak a peek of her in action. Perfect for the warm summer months!

New This Week: Mamie and Molly

Today I'm welcoming two new Deco Camisoles to my Etsy shop, Mamie and Molly. Both Mamie and Molly take graphic lace motifs and juxtaposes them with a sweet and feminine bow detail. Hard meets soft, dark meets light, structured meets fussy femme. I love when fashion's two-faced!

Mamie

Molly

A Flurry of Knickers

I've been having a blast sewing up knickers over the past few weeks!

These little silk and lace pieces make perfect wedding or bachelorette party gifts.

From left to right: Zandra, Estelle, and Melinda. All available in the Honey Cooler Handmade Etsy store.

Which one's your favorite?

Humble Beginnings

Whenever I have a lackluster day of sewing I remind myself of this little affirmation:

No matter what our craft, we all started somewhere.

I've always been fascinated by corsetry. Long before I could conceptualize corsets as sexy, my naive brain simply accepted them as beautiful. Every antique store, costume shop and rummage sale had me searching for my first lace-up specimen. It wasn't until college that I finally broke down and learned how to sew, just so I could own one myself. Forget that my first corset fit terribly and that I sewed the lining inside out so that the seam allowances showed. Frankly, I had no idea what I was doing, but who cares? Again, we all started somewhere.

While I was really self-deprecating about my first project's glaring flaws, my friends were much more supportive of my efforts. One of my closest pals at the time even asked me to make her a costume for the Miss Petite America Pageant. She was representing Pennsylvania, and we had decided to give her an amped up Betsy Ross outfit. And let's be honest here. It was college, where every female costume was sexified: from the daringly short toga party sheet dress to the slutty ladybug or the Playboy bunny at Halloween (and yes, I did rock both of those costumes while in college). Given our attitudes toward dressing up, why not a sexy Betsy Ross costume?

My pal rocked this itsy-bitsy ensemble for the pageant and even told me years later that she broke it out ever July 4th after. Very cool!

Fast forward to now. I've made a bajillion corsets, each better than the last. Now with Honey Cooler Handmade, I channel my love for corsetry and my penchant for wearability into making ribbon corsets, and it just so happens that my newest piece brings back a bit of the sexified Betsy Ross sensibility I first encountered in 2004. She's immaculately sewn, if I do say so myself, and is fittingly named Betsy.

So, here's (new) Betsy, just in time for Independence Day! A little more pragmatic than the previous version, perfect for cinching a starched white summer dress. Check out more photos here!

Gift Giving, Honey Cooler Handmade Style!

You: "Where is Stephanie and what has she been up to?"

Glad you asked. I've been sewing my little heart out, but not for Etsy. As it turns out, two very important people had birthdays over the past month and I was determined to knock out two very handmade and very special gifts for both of them in the space of just a few days.

The first gift was for my best friend's daughter Sadie, who just turned 4. Even though there's an enormous age gap between us, I can relate to Sadie on many levels. We both like princesses, pink, glitter, butterflies and dancing. So when her birthday rolled around this year, I knew I had to make something uber special to add to her cache of princess wear. After consulting with her mom about Sadie's favorite things, I decided that a pink sparkle tutu lined in purple tulle and topped with giant rhinestone-spangled butterfly wings would be the most practical solution to every fairy princess' problem: "What the hell do I wear for a day of adventure?" So, behold. The finished product!

The wings were by far the most fun part of this whole enterprise! If I can get BFF to take photos of Sadie in all her fairy princess glory I'll make sure to do a full-on blog post about this uber-fun piece. Sadie is already mastering the ability to turn down paparazzi photo shoots, so I wasn't able to get shots myself. As a side note, this tutu is for outside use only because the glitter tulle sheds sparkly speckles everywhere. Wish I'd known that when I bought the tulle, but hindsight is 20/20.

Next up: my husband. His birthday was this week and he's been asking me to make him a button-down shirt for years. Too scared to venture into the uncharted waters of menswear, I always pushed off the project, but this year I decided to make his dream a reality. I drafted the pattern off one of his existing shirts and got down to business sewing. It was actually a really fun project!

My husband looks amazing in his shirt, but I doubt he'll model it for me so you'll have to be content with folded close-ups for now.

My workspace is currently overrun with contractors (long story), so needless to say there will be no sewing this week. Next week, however, I plan to rock the socks off every Deco-loving person on the planet once again. I scored some lovely lightweight jacquard this week, so expect some incredible loungewear in the coming weeks.

Have you ever made a gift for someone that stretched beyond your realm of expertise or comfort? I'd love to hear about it!

Preview: Veda Garconne Tap Shorts

I was debating the following titles for this post:

Have a Heart... Or Two (or) I Wear My Heart(s) on My Butt. When discussing cheeky shorts one can be a little, well, cheekier than usual!

I love these shorts - they're the perfect pair to the Eunice Deco Camisole! They'll be up in the shop tomorrow!

Preview: Eunice Deco Camisole

Yay for Eunice! I just finished sewing her up this afternoon and she'll be listed on Honey Cooler Handmade tomorrow! :)

Learning the Photo Ropes

Thanks to the amazing people hanging around on the Etsy forums, I've decided to revamp my Honey Cooler Handmade photos. I'd been fighting the urge to play with my photo levels for fear that they wouldn't accurately display color, but you know what? I'm really happy with these!

So, the Lucie Garconne Tap Shorts were the guinea pig, and what a cute guinea pig they make (if I do say so myself)...

What do you think?