Night Garden has Landed at Dark Garden!

The Evgenia Lingerie Night Garden collection has officially landed at Dark Garden, our longtime stockist. The Night Garden collection is the epitome of luxury: from fine lightweight silk crepe de chine to an exquisite French starry lace and our signature insertion lace bow detail. Each piece is made right here in the Bay Area.

Bralette in Black Dahlia, $130

Deco Romper in Moon Flower, $234

Tap Short in Moon Flower, $141

Modern Star Knicker in China Rose, $108

Modern Star Knicker in Black Dahlia / Moon Flower, $108

Tap Short in Wisteria, $141

Deco Tee in China Rose, $223

Visit Dark Garden at 321 Linden Lane in San Francisco to pick out your favorite pieces!

NYFW Red Dress Diary, Part II: Show Time

It's certainly possible that all the preparation in the world could have been insufficient to tackle my fitting with Carla Hall for the Go Red show. As I mentioned in my last post, my only fittings involved a dress form and someone significantly shorter than my model, so needless to say, I went into my Manhattan appointment feeling a bit beyond my depth. Then there was the issue that the dress I ended up making was somewhat different than my original design and I began to wonder if the final product would still effectively communicate my aesthetic.

Original sketch, second sketch, final gown

On the day of my fitting, I left my friend's apartment in Brooklyn early and braved the snow with my gown. Before my appointment, I made a quick visit to Manhattan Wardrobe Supply where I bought tough-as-nails double-sided tape and a few other last minute fitting essentials. My fitting was at Dani New York, a full service alterations workroom in the Garment District, coincidentally in the same building as my friend Angela Friedman's showroom. Natalia and Joe, the owners of Dani, were so welcoming. It's no secret that the New York fashion world isn't always friendly - Natalia and Joe were incredibly sweet to me, a rare, wonderful treat.

When Natalia asked me if I'd brought extra fabric, I had a moment of panic - What if the gown was too short? What if I had to add extra panels? I hadn't, in fact, brought extra fabric and began to worry that I had made a grave mistake. However, once Carla slipped on the gown, it all became clear: it was pretty damn close to perfect.

Natalia fits Carla.

There were, of course, minor adjustments that needed making, but nothing Natalia seemed to think was anything more than no big deal. It was satisfying to see that all the adjustments I'd made in San Francisco were the right moves to make. Carla is longer waisted than her measurements implied, so adjusting the bodice and yoke had definitely been the right move. The most significant change we had to make was to the length - the extra 6" Dorothy and I added were mostly lopped off in the front. When Carla told me she felt beautiful in my gown, I finally felt like I could breathe. All my hard work was paying off. Not only was Carla the perfect model, but she was gracious and sweet - such a delight to work with.

Lincoln Center, inside the fashion tents

And then the night arrived. I showed up at Lincoln Center with my heart in my throat. Navigating the fashion tents proved to be a little more complicated than expected, though I did end up getting some high fives from the gorgeous male models from the Band of Outsiders show. Once I arrived at the Go Red backstage area, I was blown away by the hustle and bustle of it all. My gown was ready for Carla and the celebrities were out in full force. From Laverne Cox to Hoda Kotb and Thalia to Ciara and Rosie O'Donnell, I was a little taken aback by all the familiar faces I'd only before seen on TV.

Carla and yours truly backstage

And before long, the other Incubator designers from Philadelphia and Chicago and I were ushered through the red carpet area, interviewed in a hurry and then sent to the front of the house to watch the show. And what can I say? It was amazing. Carla in particular had so much wonderful attitude and energy - it was a wonderful experience seeing my own work on the NYFW runway on such an amazing woman. See the whole show here on the Go Red site.

Carla on the runway

NYFW Red Dress Diary, Part I: Drape, Sew, Fit, Repeat

When the board of the San Francisco Fashion Incubator asked me to create a gown for the prestigious Go Red for Women runway show at New York Fashion Week, I initially didn't know what to say. As the only lingerie designer in a program mostly populated by womenswear designers, this amazing opportunity was quite the surprise, and, frankly, a challenge I was at once thrilled and a little nervous to take on. While Evgenia's focus is lingerie, I'm not a stranger to making dresses and gowns - in fact, my education at FIDM was in womenswear.

Initial sketches, preparing for the first drape, padding the dress form

I was asked to submit three initial designs, the first of which was my absolute favorite - a 1930's-themed bias cut gown with star lace appliqués throughout. After some celebrity changes (my first assigned celeb had to back out due to schedule conflicts), I was eventually assigned to dress celebrity chef Carla Hall, a former model who stands at an astonishingly statuesque 6' tall. I was told that she loved my first sketch, was given her measurements and got to work preparing to drape my gown. Because the mannequin I was working with was scaled for a shorter woman, I had to pad her out a bit to fit one considerably taller. With the help of FISF's resident sewing, pattern making and apparel construction expert Dorothy Yuki, I created a totally new form on which to drape.

Photos via Kelly Puleio Photography

Carla had requested that I pare down the star detailing on the dress, something I was more than happy to do. My first sketches were on the more fantastical side and after some thought I wasn't sure how they would translate to the runway. A more measured approach to embellishment seemed to be more fitting for a Fashion Week show, so I removed the center sash star and a bunch of the star appliqués throughout the top portion of the gown. Because of Carla's past runway experience, I thought adding a sweeping skirt would create a beautiful motion during the show for a confident walker.

First bodice mockup

I actually did two separate drapes, one for my first assigned celebrity who as 5'2" and the second for Carla Hall. In all, I sewed the bodice four separate times, three times for Carla's gown. Many of the design elements I dreamed up proved to be a bit more complicated to execute than I'd initially thought. For example, the gathering at the bust caused some issues with the waist seam (see above) which I had to allow extra ease for. The hip yoke was cut on the bias to allow for maximum fit flexibility, but as any dressmaker knows, bias is a whole different ballgame and can be quite a challenge to work with. After meeting with Dorothy to make the proper pattern adjustments following my first draft, I figured it was time to move into my final fabric with only 12 days to go until New York.

Second bodice mockup with skirt

The second draft of Carla's bodice was a million times better with some minor, easy-to-fix issues. At that point, I drafted the skirt pattern and tried it out in some extra silk I had lying around. Dorothy and I agreed that we should allow an extra 6" for the bottom hem to allow for the possibility of sky high shoes.

Star appliques and snips

Once I was happy with the final skirt shape, I began cutting in in the final fabric and adding the star appliqués one by one with the help of my intern, Lux. Each of the four panels of the skirt had between 12 - 15 stars on it, each hand-basted, appliquéd by machine and snipped by hand with sewing scissors.

Second bodice mockup (left), fitting with Michelle Byrnes, final gown before finishing

Once the skirt was finished, I was desperate to try the gown on someone with similar proportions to Carla, but I didn't know anyone 6' tall with shared similar measurements. Then a friend suggested I call up 2013 Designer in Residence and kickass designer in her own right Michelle Byrnes. She's not 6' tall, but she's pretty darn close, and pretty close to Carla's body measurements. She came by the Incubator and we tried on the gown. There remained some small fit considerations, but it was clear I was getting a lot closer to the final product! I ended up lowering the waist seam, lengthening the bias yoke and extending the shoulders which yielded…

The final gown

…the final product! Per Dorothy's recommendations, I left large seam allowances at the side seams to manage any potential fit issues that would pop up. Remember, I didn't have a chance to fit Carla in person until my arrival in New York, at which point any major alterations would be out of my hands.

Next up, my final fitting in New York and the NYFW Go Red runway show!

Ready-to-Ship for Your Valentine's Day Gifting Pleasure!

I've been a busy bee - working diligently to have more pieces ready to ship for Valentine's Day than I've ever had before. I'm proud to say that almost everything from the first official HCH collection is ready to ship in all sizes, so if you've been eyeing anything particular, now's the time to snap it up for yourself or your sweetie. If you missed my last roundup of ready-to-ship pieces, check it out here!

Make sure to double-check item listings carefully, because stock availability changes quickly during the V-Day season - each of these items is available on Etsy and BigCartel.

Left: Pink Deco Bralette, Pink Deco Garter Belt, Black/Red Brocade Ribbon Corset,

Pink Deco Knickers Right: Black Deco Bralette, Black Deco Garter Belt,

Black/White Brocade Ribbon Corset, Black Deco Knickers

(Photography by Her Lovely Bones)

Left: Black Deco Camisole, Black Deco Garter Belt Center: Ivory Deco Chemise,

Ivory Deco Garter Belt Right: Black Deco Chemise, Black Deco Garter Belt

Black Deco Sleep Mask, Deco Skull Camisole, Black Deco Knickers, Black Deco Garter Belt

Left: Ivory Deco Tap Shorts, Ivory Deco Garter Belt, Right: Black Deco Tap Shorts, Black Deco Garter Belt

A Little Tease...

The new collection drops next week on Big Cartel. I am so excited to share my hard work with all of you!

I See London, I See France...

...I see a new stash of HCH Papillon Knickers!

My newest style has been a bit of a hot seller, so while I've been working on my official collection, I made sure to sew up some new colorful pairs for the shop. Check them out and snap up a pair or two for yourself (or your favorite leading lady).

Clockwise from top left: Nea Papillon Knickers ($60), Georgia Papillon Knickers ($50),

Aida Papillon Knickers ($60), Thalie Papillon Knickers ($55)

There are even more new pieces in the Knicker section of the HCH shop than ever before, including larger sizes in beautiful colors and laces. The Papillon style is going to be a staple in the official collection, and I'm so happy it's gotten so much attention so far. My current favorites are these, which feature a gorgeous silver elastic and velvet bow!

Adrienne Papillon Knickers ($65)

Which are your favorites from the new Knicker stash?

Three 'Grams: Making it Official

I'm kicking off the weekend with a brand new feature (actually the only weekly feature) on the HCH blog: Three 'Grams. Instagram has become a huge part of sharing my creative process and I find myself posting tons of photos throughout the week. For those of you who aren't following me there, you can tune in right here to see my three favorite shots from that week. Enjoy!

* * *

Line illustration

I've hinted over the past few months that I would be changing things up here at the HCH atelier. And it's official: changes are underway. I'm now in the throes of sewing up samples for smalltime production. What does that mean? Big factories? Warehouses of fabric? Not quite.

It means that for the first time, I'll be buying fabric in (modest) quantity, grading all of my patterns and offering a set selection of pieces in a range of sizes and colors. Lace motifs will be duplicated for the first time - using the same lace from piece to piece. That means that when you visit HCH either online or in person in the future, you'll actually be able to buy your size made-to-order in whatever piece you like. Because this is a big scary step for me, initially the size range will be S - L, but it will broaden over time if things go as hoped and planned. As always, everything will still be made by my own two hands and I'll still be doing custom work, so if you don't fit into the S - L range, I've got you covered. And as if this all wasn't news enough, I'll be adding new products to the range in addition to adjusting the fits on all my patterns. Whew! So in addition to working on an official HCH collection, I'm officially a little overwhelmed, officially a little freaked out and yes, officially, excited.

Laces

My lookbook shoot is scheduled for early October, so I've got a nice chunk of time to work out all the kinks in my patterns and sewing. So far, though, so good.

First samples

New Style: Papillon Knickers

Yes it's true! There's a new style available on the HCH official site and on Etsy: Papillon Knickers. The drafted pattern is similar to that of my traditional Knicker style, but with more room and gathered stitching in the seat. It's an extra-sexy style that gives more definition to your rear and is sure to attract attention.

The name "Papillon" comes from the French word for butterfly. When laid out, these lovelies remind me very much of a butterfly's wings!

Lovella Papillon Knickers

Check out the three new pairs available: Lovella (featured above - dachshund motif silk jacquard, size medium), Dierdre (polka dot lavender silk jacquard, size large) and Philomena (green floral motif silk chiffon, size small).

HCH Papillon Knickers are perfect for a a sexy striptease, leisurely lounging or just about anything beyond and in between, don't you think?

Red, White and Blue

Ever since I returned home from Europe I've been playing catch-up at HCH HQ, part of which has involved re-taking my Knicker, Bloomer and Garçonne Tap Short photos. Those of you who follow HCH on Facebook and Twitter know I've been struggling with photographing bottoms on a mannequin for the past few months. Two agonizing paint jobs, hundreds of discarded photos, a purchased (then abandoned) lightbox, and a tripod later, I feel like I may have finally nailed it!

So, just in time for the inevitable patriotic run-up to July 4th, here's a sample of what's been going on on the HCH site and Etsy in red, white and blue.

Mimi Knickers, Charity Knickers, Peggie Garçonne Tap Shorts

What do you think?

Countdown to Gatsby: Neo Flapper

A sneak peek of things to come...

"Her face was sad and lovely with bright things in it, bright eyes and a bright passionate mouth, but there was an excitement in her voice that men who had cared for her found difficult to forget: a singing compulsion, a whispered "Listen," a promise that she had done gay, exciting things just a while since and that there were gay, exciting things hovering in the next hour." 

- F. Scott Fitzgerald, The Great Gatsby

The Great Gatsby hits theaters in less than 2 days. Are you ready?

Honey Cooler Handmade is on Instagram!

I'm a late adopter.

Let's face it - I discovered my passion for 1950's dresses thirty years after they were part of mainstream culture. So it should come as no surprise that took me years to jump on the Instagram bandwagon. I thought I'd dismiss it as just another social media time suck - and maybe part of that is actually true - but it's turned out to be a really fun way to share my progress photos and out-and-about discoveries with like-minded people.

Here are a few shots from my feed: honeycoolerhandmade.

Custom Natasha Deco Cami in progress. (via)

Sketchbook detail. (via) 

Street art outside Flax. (via) 

Lucky Star Deco Cami in progress. (via)

Be sure to share your account name in the comments!

Where Are All the Skulls?

Flying off the shelves, so to speak!

In probably the most delightful surprise of the past month or two, my Skull Deco Camis have become quite popular... so popular in fact, that I sold out of all but one at last week's private trunk show! They are my favorite pieces to sew, and my most time-consuming, so it's been a challenge to keep up with demand. But never fear, there are two new Camis on their way to the Etsy shop, and they'll be making their in-person debuts at Dollhouse Bettie this Friday.

Bellinda Deco Cami

The first is above, a new take on an old classic, bias-cut and sewn from a gorgeous navy animal "print" silk jacquard. Bellinda sports a dragon crown too - one of my favorite laces.

Keep your eyes peeled on the Etsy shop for more newness, and don't forget to swing by Dollhouse Bettie on Friday and Dark Garden on Saturday for two delicious trunk shows featuring my pieces!

I'll Let You in on a Little Secret...

She'd rather get silk than paper this Valentine's Day (and who are we kidding? You'd probably love seeing her in it too). Chocolates get eaten, roses fade, and cards get tucked away into dusty shoeboxes. Change up your routine and give her a pair of Honey Cooler Handmade's sexy, flattering Knickers this Valentine's Day - they're the gift that keeps on giving, and will make her feel like the goddess she is!

Check out what's new in my Knickers & Bloomers section of the Etsy shop - there will be many more pairs to come in the next few weeks, and stay tuned for details on local trunk shows featuring HCH lingerie.

Top row: Maura Knickers, Hattie Knickers,

 Bottom row: Josephine Knickers, Mimi Knickers

Robe de Style Recap

If you've been following my exploits on Twitter, you know that I created a robe de style dress for a party my husband and I threw to celebrate our anniversary. We rented The Russell Room, a small cigar lounge inside Bourbon & Branch (a fantastic cocktail bar in San Francisco that was once a speakeasy). We asked our guests to dress in the style of the 1920's to keep with the overall feeling of the location - and that meant I had to find the perfect outfit.

The Russell Room inside Bourbon & Branch

Though I love the fashion of the 1920's, most of the dresses were not flattering on women with busts and hips. The trend back then was to bind an ample bosom down to boyish proportions while wearing a girdle-like corset contraption to tame wide hips. Lucky for me, the robe de style dress was a perfect choice given my shape. It was first created by Jeanne Lanvin, and coveted by women who didn't want to wear the uber-short dresses that were then fashionable. Whether or not it's truly the case, I like to think of the robe de style as evidence of a prolonged affection for all things Edwardian. It's a more streamlined and comfortable version of the frou frou gown of the teens, yet retains all the trappings of the prior decade's girliness: ruffles, faux flowers, bows.

I just had to find a pattern that would work... and sadly, there were not many options online. Then I found this lovely creature on eBay. Not quite the right size, damaged and too pricey, but luckily the seller took a million pictures and the body looked easy to mimic.

The finished product

I had a wonderful time working on this project. I got to play around with from-scratch pattern drafting, an unholy amount of gathering, and a rustling Thai silk that smelled like heaven and still makes me swoon when I see it.

Faux flowers, pleats galore and a silk organza hem

For the flower flourish up front, I visited The Ribbonerie. The owner, Pauline, helped me find the perfect spray of vintage German blossoms. I was hoping to get something similar to the original, but had to keep reminding myself that the color and limpness of the 1920's version was due to patina and was unlikely to be replicated. The flowers I picked were as close to perfect as I was going to come with only a week to go.

Dress back and pleating close-up

Even though the misplaced darts on the original dress suggest it was photographed backwards, I couldn't resist keeping the flowers up front, and I loved the idea of the back pleating mimicking the shape of a derrière.

The bodice was a cinch to make - two pieces with four long sashes that tie at the natural waist and cinch above each hip. The skirt was cut double wide, copiously pleated, then sewn into the front and back torso panels before stitching them together. I also finished the hem in a papery silk organza, just like the original. Unlike the original, though, I bias bound the neckline and created wider straps so I'd be able to wear a regular bra underneath.

Jewelry from Etsy, Haute Bride and vintage stores around San Francisco,

1930's evening shoes from Torso Vintages

And if I was going to pull this whole thing off, I had to accessorize like a flapper too: with a bucket of bling. I pulled every sparkly thing I had in my possession, including the necklace I wore for my wedding. What I didn't already have, I snagged off Etsy. Shoes proved to be more difficult to find, but I lucked out and found a pair in need of repainting. They turned out to be wickedly uncomfortable and I kicked them off an hour into the party (see below). I faux-bobbed my hair and gave myself a half-moon manicure. All set!

In action

I love this entry on the flapper from Wikipedia:

Flappers were a "new breed" of young Western women in the 1920s who wore short skirts, bobbed their hair, listened to jazz, and flaunted their disdain for what was then considered acceptable behavior. Flappers were seen as brash for wearing excessive makeup, drinking, treating sex in a casual manner, smoking, driving automobiles and otherwise flouting social and sexual norms.

True to Flapper style, I was so preoccupied with doing my own version of the Charleston and drinking Revolvers that I never settled down for some refined photographs, but so be it. There's always Halloween!

The 100 Club

Just call me an Etsy badass.

From How to be a Retronaut

I finally attained the oft-discussed-on-the-Etsy-forums magic number: 100 items in my Etsy shop! Even though I've made tons more than 100 pieces at this point, this is the first time I've had that many on Etsy at once. The lady that made it all happen, Wanda, is below. She's made of a gorgeous fuchsia-tinged purple silk jacquard with a triple bow detail and sheer tulle panels at the sides. At once sexy and lovely, Wanda makes the perfect gift for the special lady in your life, especially if she's you!

Wanda Garconne Tap Shorts

As I begin to work on my next 100 pieces, I'd love to hear what you want to see in the shop. I love hearing from all of you, so requests for specific sizes, colors and motifs are always appreciated. Bralettes are in the pipeline as well, so stay tuned!

Fashion Love Affair: Alberta Ferretti Silk Apron Dress

I'm having a hard time keeping it together this morning.

Alberta Ferretti's gorgeous apron dress from Spring 2011 has been on The Outnet for awhile, and has just dropped from $2,540 to around $400 with a summer promotion that's going on right now. I could cry.

The entire shebang is made out of silk organza "ribbons", which are woven together to create a piece that is at once aesthetically gorgeous and totally useless. Someone shake some sense into me. Why am I coveting pieces that have no business out and about in the real world?

Oh, that's right. Because I don't inhabit the real world. I inhabit a fantasy world in which women wear silk organza aprons to the grocery store. Ok, I hope that sounded as silly to you as it did to me.

(A girl can still dream, right?)