Countdown to Gatsby: Neo Flapper

A sneak peek of things to come...

"Her face was sad and lovely with bright things in it, bright eyes and a bright passionate mouth, but there was an excitement in her voice that men who had cared for her found difficult to forget: a singing compulsion, a whispered "Listen," a promise that she had done gay, exciting things just a while since and that there were gay, exciting things hovering in the next hour." 

- F. Scott Fitzgerald, The Great Gatsby

The Great Gatsby hits theaters in less than 2 days. Are you ready?

6 Fashionable Ways to Channel Your Inner Flapper

Unless you've been living under a rock, you've probably noticed that the whole world seems to be coming down with Gatsby fever. Baz Luhrmann's adaptation of F. Scott Fitzgerald's classic book hits theaters on May 10th and its release is inspiring wardrobes everywhere. Normally, cinema-inspired fashion trends seem to arrive in the blink of an eye and burn out just as quickly, but flapper fashion has been in vogue for almost a year, and will (thanks to confirmation from Fall 2013 Fashion Week runways - see here and here) likely be in style quite a bit longer.

Going full garçonne is quite a feat if you've never dabbled in the iconic style before, but it doesn't mean you have to miss out on one of the most timeless trends to come down the runways in the recent past. Adding just one element of flapper to your wardrobe can give a satisfying nod to your inner Deco era starlet, without turning you into a full-blown raccoon eyed Clara Bow look-alike.

Here are six ways to easily usher the trend into your wardrobe, and show up to your local premiere of The Great Gatsby Charleston ready!

Four Deuces in the boudoir.

 Nucky Thompson and the ladies of The Four Deuces in HBO's Boardwalk Empire

The Great Gatsby isn't the only recent cinematic work that takes place in the 1920's. While HBO's Boardwalk Empire tells the tale of bootlegging in Atlantic City, some of the loveliest outfits are worn by the ladies of the Four Deuces, a bordello and casino in Chicago. Flappers may have been considered risqué by Edwardian standards, but today, their lingerie is sweetly sexy. Don a gorgeous, kicky Honey Cooler Handmade Moonshine Chemise and channel your inner bad girl. To complete the look, pick up a pair of black patterned tights and cut them off at the thigh. Keep 'em up with elastic garters - a trick I learned from my talented stylist, Dominique Guillen.

 

Ukushu wears the Petunia Moonshine Chemise at Trick Dog

Contemporary, but vintage inspired.

 

 Clockwise from top left: Daisy (wearing Prada) flanked by Jay Gatsby and Tom Buchanan in The Great Gastby |

River Island Drop Waist Dress, $58.19 | A.L.C. Saphier Dress, $795 | Bar III Sleeveless Drop Waist Dress, $44.99 |

YosefPerez One of a Kind Dress, $899 | Parker Sequin Dress, $352 | Fire Drop Waist Dress, $44

Since flapper fashion is such a hot ticket right now, designers spanning all styles and price points are using the garçonne as inspiration. Whether your budget is more Nina Ricci or more H&M, there's something out there to suit your inner flapper. Look for drop-waist cuts, heavy beading and pleats. Remember that 1920's era dresses depended on their loose shape to ignore a traditionally feminine figure, so stay away from structured pieces and those that emphasize a high natural waist.

Headbands.

 From left to right: Tiffany Great Gatsby Collecrtion Headpiece, $200,000 | ASOS Flapper Headband, $24.95 |

RoseoftheMire Headpiece, $168

The ultimate flapper accessory. Tiffany has just released the same headband that Daisy Buchanan wears in The Great Gatsby. At a cool $200,000, it's out of most of our reaches, but there are countless alternatives out there. From a simple sequin band to a big crystal headpiece right over the forehead, this was probably the most iconic part of true flapper fashion. And better yet? A headband goes with just about anything, so even if you don't feel like adopting an entire wardrobe reminiscent of Jay Gatsby's flame, you can still indulge just enough to make a statement.

 Finger waves.

 From left to right: A partygoer at Myrtle Wilson's New York apartment in The Great Gatsby | Actress Bebe Daniels

Probably the cheapest (yet most complicated) way to indulge in Deco era style. Finger waves and bob cuts were an essential part of the flapper look. YouTube is teeming with tutorials on how to achieve an authentic finger wave. The undulating style is hard to perfect, but it's work of art to be sure. Got long hair and don't feel like chopping it off for the sake of a trend? Not to worry - just roll styled ends underneath at the nape of your neck and pin securely to fake the look.

One of the best finger wave tutorials out there!

The tantalizing t-strap.

 Clockwise from top left: 4birdsvintage Antique 1920's Shoes, $128 | Pleaser Bordello Strap Pump, $34.95 |

Seychelles All Dressed Up T-Strap Pump, $82.51 | Sergio Rossi T-Strap Pump, $995

The t-strap is a classic sartorial component of women's 1920's fashion. Straps and buckles ensured a secure fit for quick tempo dancing. Look for sumptuous satins and metallics, slightly rounded toes with a moderate heel. If comfort's your main concern, tango shoes are a great way to go - snag some at your local dance supply store and spray paint them gold for an extra boost of glamour. For exquisite examples of the real (vintage) deal, check out this incredible Pinterest board.

Original vintage.

From left to right: Fab Gabs Robe de Style, $1200 | The Way We Wore French Beaded Flapper Dress |

EmmelineChic 1920's Silk Satin Lace Dress, $889 | Timeless Vixen Lame and Silk Chiffon Dress, $1400

As is true with most things in life, nothing beats the real deal. For true Deco devotees, vintage is the way to go. Original 1920's dresses can be hard to come by, and many are in less-than-ideal condition. Extant beaded dresses are often so fragile that they can't be on hangers, so count yourself lucky if you (1) find one in great condition, (2) can afford it, and (3) can fit into it! I find some excellent vintage pieces on Etsy and local vintage shops, many at reasonable prices. But as you might expect, the loveliest specimens boast the highest price tags (see above). If you decide to take the plunge and buy true vintage, remember that a little damage is par for the course, and few relics make it almost 100 years without some wear and tear. Treat your find with care and it can last 100 more.

Flapper Fashion for Autumn/Winter 2013 - Part II

The Art Deco influence was a consistent presence in many of the Autumn/Winter 2013 fashion shows. From simple shifts to short and kicky pleats, there was a neo flapper around virtually every corner. If you're in doubt that The Great Gatsby was an aesthetic influence for US and European designers, just check out the movie logo and the geometrically patterned looks below. Coincidence? I think not.

The Gates of Gatsby: J Mendel, Herve Leger, Temperley London, Manish Arora

Glitz and Glamour: Monique Lhuillier, Prada, Julien MacDonald, Gucci

Shimmering Flapper: Just Cavalli, Naeem Khan, Monique Lhuillier

But Deco wasn't the only vintage aesthetic choice on the runways; There was an element of Edwardian to Deco transition in some presentations that was decidedly Downton Abbey-inspired. Lace, embroidery and feminine cuts are the perfect homage to a lovely show. Can't you just see a modern Lady Mary rocking all of these dresses?

Downton Devotee: Alberta Ferretti, Blugirl, Alberta Ferretti, Paola Frani, Blugirl

Flapper Fashion for Autumn/Winter 2013 - Part I

The Great Gatsby is coming out in May and it's sure to be on Netflix by the time fall fashion collections crop up in stores, but that it doesn't mean that Deco will be dead come September. The runways of New York, Paris, Milan and London prove a lingering crush on all things Art Deco, from silhouettes to design elements and patterns. The 1920's-inspired looks run the gamut from simple, boyish cuts to glitzy sheaths that will have the most dedicated vintage aficionado saving their pennies.

Sleek and Simple: J Mendel, Narcisco Rodriguez, Yeohlee, Temperley London

Flapper LBD: Alberta Ferretti, Marco de Vincenzo, Roberto Cavalli

Structured Deco: Alexander Wang, Georgio Armani, Emanno Scervino, Jasper Conran

Time Machine: Blugirl, Zac Posen, Temperley London, Nina Ricci

Robe de Style Recap

If you've been following my exploits on Twitter, you know that I created a robe de style dress for a party my husband and I threw to celebrate our anniversary. We rented The Russell Room, a small cigar lounge inside Bourbon & Branch (a fantastic cocktail bar in San Francisco that was once a speakeasy). We asked our guests to dress in the style of the 1920's to keep with the overall feeling of the location - and that meant I had to find the perfect outfit.

The Russell Room inside Bourbon & Branch

Though I love the fashion of the 1920's, most of the dresses were not flattering on women with busts and hips. The trend back then was to bind an ample bosom down to boyish proportions while wearing a girdle-like corset contraption to tame wide hips. Lucky for me, the robe de style dress was a perfect choice given my shape. It was first created by Jeanne Lanvin, and coveted by women who didn't want to wear the uber-short dresses that were then fashionable. Whether or not it's truly the case, I like to think of the robe de style as evidence of a prolonged affection for all things Edwardian. It's a more streamlined and comfortable version of the frou frou gown of the teens, yet retains all the trappings of the prior decade's girliness: ruffles, faux flowers, bows.

I just had to find a pattern that would work... and sadly, there were not many options online. Then I found this lovely creature on eBay. Not quite the right size, damaged and too pricey, but luckily the seller took a million pictures and the body looked easy to mimic.

The finished product

I had a wonderful time working on this project. I got to play around with from-scratch pattern drafting, an unholy amount of gathering, and a rustling Thai silk that smelled like heaven and still makes me swoon when I see it.

Faux flowers, pleats galore and a silk organza hem

For the flower flourish up front, I visited The Ribbonerie. The owner, Pauline, helped me find the perfect spray of vintage German blossoms. I was hoping to get something similar to the original, but had to keep reminding myself that the color and limpness of the 1920's version was due to patina and was unlikely to be replicated. The flowers I picked were as close to perfect as I was going to come with only a week to go.

Dress back and pleating close-up

Even though the misplaced darts on the original dress suggest it was photographed backwards, I couldn't resist keeping the flowers up front, and I loved the idea of the back pleating mimicking the shape of a derrière.

The bodice was a cinch to make - two pieces with four long sashes that tie at the natural waist and cinch above each hip. The skirt was cut double wide, copiously pleated, then sewn into the front and back torso panels before stitching them together. I also finished the hem in a papery silk organza, just like the original. Unlike the original, though, I bias bound the neckline and created wider straps so I'd be able to wear a regular bra underneath.

Jewelry from Etsy, Haute Bride and vintage stores around San Francisco,

1930's evening shoes from Torso Vintages

And if I was going to pull this whole thing off, I had to accessorize like a flapper too: with a bucket of bling. I pulled every sparkly thing I had in my possession, including the necklace I wore for my wedding. What I didn't already have, I snagged off Etsy. Shoes proved to be more difficult to find, but I lucked out and found a pair in need of repainting. They turned out to be wickedly uncomfortable and I kicked them off an hour into the party (see below). I faux-bobbed my hair and gave myself a half-moon manicure. All set!

In action

I love this entry on the flapper from Wikipedia:

Flappers were a "new breed" of young Western women in the 1920s who wore short skirts, bobbed their hair, listened to jazz, and flaunted their disdain for what was then considered acceptable behavior. Flappers were seen as brash for wearing excessive makeup, drinking, treating sex in a casual manner, smoking, driving automobiles and otherwise flouting social and sexual norms.

True to Flapper style, I was so preoccupied with doing my own version of the Charleston and drinking Revolvers that I never settled down for some refined photographs, but so be it. There's always Halloween!

A Trunk Show Isn't Complete Without...

...a trunk! (And I have a few of them coming up soon!)

Those of you who follow Honey Cooler Handmade on Facebook and Twitter know that I purchased a shabby, yet stunning 1920's magician's trunk on ebay awhile back. When I opened the big box it arrived in, I realized that along with the gorgeous trunk came a not-so-gorgeous smell, presumably from the ancient glue that was holding the old black silk lining inside.

Left: Trunk exterior, Right: Scraping the old glue

While I was initially bummed about having to tear out the ancient lining and the hours needed to scrape out the smelly, shattering glue, I realized that redoing the interior would allow for an awesome amount of artistic freedom and... PINK PEAU DE SOIE! My hesitation in finishing this project mainly arose from my fear that I'd somehow screw it up, either by snagging the expensive fabric, ruining the trim or grossly mis-measuring. My husband's months-long insistence that this trunk not lay around in pieces on our bedroom floor was the reason for its swift completion this week, and I couldn't be more proud of the results.

Take a peek at some snaps below, and if you want to check this puppy out in person, you can do so at my trunk show next Sunday - details to follow!

The finished product: re-lined in pink peau de soie!

Looking Good Doesn't Come Cheap

It turns out that champagne taste is timeless.

Image via How to be a Retronaut

If you thought $346.50 was a lot to spend one outfit, consider that this breakdown dates from 1926, so the same outfit would cost about $4300 today.

Flapper Fashion at PFW, LFW, MFW | Autumn/Winter 2012

I couldn't help but swoon over New York Fashion Week's neo-flapper offerings for Fall 2012. Each covetable dress felt like the embodiment of la vraie garçonne, and I wanted each piece to miraculously land in my closet on the double. That being said, Paris, Milan and London Fashion Weeks' shows boasted something a little different different: diversity. Think impossibly feminine chiffon columns contrasted with heavy fabric gowns, angular cutaways, sheer chevrons and corseted leather (!) flapper dresses. Simply jaw-droppingly different.

I'm going to take a moment to set aside my vintage fashion purism and tip my hat to the anything-but-customary Europeans. Check out some of my favorite looks from London, Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks below and prepare to fall in love with Deco in a totally different way!

Tall, Dark, and Handsome: Pucci, Kenzo, John Galliano

Pops of Color: Versus, John Galliano, Givenchy, Jil Sander, Holly Fulton

Ghostly Flapper: Nina Ricci, John Galliano, Nina Ricci

Fashion Love Affair: Vogue Turkey, March 2012

I'm in love with this awesome Jazz Age inspired shoot from Vogue Turkey, March 2012. More images can be found over at the always-amazing Fashionising.